A
History of the Incorporated Village
of
Plandome
Heights
Researched
and written by ARLENE HINKEMEYER VILLAGE HISTORIAN 1978–1996
Updated
by ELEANOR M. IMPERATO VILLAGE HISTORIAN
Artwork
by JOHN S. ALLEN

Photograph courtesy of the Manhasset Public
Library
Big
Rock
Mr.
Tom Hemphill of 89 Shore Road remembers. . .
as a young boy
summering in their house on Shore Road during the 1920s and
after. There were only about two other children then in the
neighborhood. They sailed and swam; he and Esther Morse had
bike races through the bulrushes between Shore Road and the
Bay; they climbed on “Big Rock” which was a large
glacial deposit up on the hill above what was then the end
of Shore Road.
A Brief
Summary and Dateline of Manhasset History
To start
at the beginning and to put the history of Plandome Heights
in perspective:
Perhaps
about 20,000 years ago during the Ice Age. . . the beautiful
hilly and stony terrain of Manhasset and Plandome Heights
was formed by the receding mass of glacial ice.
By
about 5000 B.C. there may have been early Indians living
on Long Island.
By
1500 we know from remains uncovered in the location of
the Manhasset Bay Yacht Club, that the Matinecock Indians
peopled the bay area, which they called Sint Sink ( possibly
meaning “stone upon stone”). The Matinecock
(which may mean “hilly land”) were one of
12 Long Island Indian tribes.
In
1614 Adrian Block, following up on Henry Hudson’s
voyage to the New World in 1609, was sent by the Dutch
West India Company to explore the area for possible fur
trading sites. Block’s ship probably did sail into
Schout’s (the Dutch name for it) Bay, because a
rough map of Long Island was drawn, but the Dutch never
settled the area.
In
1640 the first settlers arrived. Captain Daniel Howe brought
some emigrants from Lynn, Massachusetts in a small ship
and landed near the southern end of the bay in what is
now Manhasset. The settlers said they had a land grant
from the British Lord Sterling, but the Dutch, who claimed
prior possession, imprisoned them for a time in New Amsterdam
(New York City), and then let them go; whereupon they
sailed farther out on Long Island and founded the settlement
of Southampton.
In
1643 Robert Fordham and John Carmen, two English leaders
of a religious sect in Connecticut, bought a strip of
Long Island from the Indians and called it “Hempstead.”
The price was some large and small kettles, some wampum
and cloth, a broadax, knives, gunpowder, lead, and a shirt
for the chief. This they paid for all the land running
from the North to the South Shore that now includes Hempstead
and North Hempstead.
In
1644 Fordham and Carmen confirmed their purchase with
the Dutch governor William Kieft (who by this time had
decided to encourage British settlement as a hedge against
the Indians) and brought about 30 families from Connecticut
to settle. These settlers lived in Hempstead and used
the Port Washington peninsula as a pasture for their cows,
calling it “Cow Neck.” The southern portion
(now Manhasset) was later called “Little Cow Neck,”
and the bay “Cow Bay.”
By
about 1658 part of the now-famous, elusively-situated
“cow fence” had been built across the peninsula.
Each settler was allowed to pasture a number of cattle
in proportion to the number of post-and-rail fence “pannels”
he had built. According to records, there were at this
time 60 participants in the common pasturelands project,
526 “pannels,” and over 300 beef and dairy
cows roaming the hilly ground. Was Plandome Heights part
of the enclosure? Probably not, since most historians
place the fence at a line running southeast from Leeds
Pond, although it could also have been as far south as
what is now Northern Boulevard.
In
1664 the British captured New Amsterdam from the Dutch.
King Charles II granted Long Island to his brother James,
the Duke of York.
In
1674 the former common pasture in Cow Neck was divided
among the settlers, also according to the number of fence
“panels” each had built, except that 200 acres
were given to Captain Matthias Nicoll to defend their
common rights. Nicoll was speaker of the first colonial
assembly and secretary of the colony. He had already bought
much of the present-day Plandome area in 1670 and at his
death in 1690 owned 600 acres in the area. He built a
home on the land and it may have been during his ownership
that the area acquired the name “Plandome”,
probably from the Latin words meaning “plain home.”
It was probably in 1693 that Joseph Latham built the Plandome
grist mill at Leeds Pond on Nicoll’s property. By
1718 Latham was able to buy Nicoll’s land, and the
mill was known as Latham’s mill.
In
1675 Richard Cornwell obtained a grant of land in Cow
Neck (in present-day Sands Point) and became its first
settler. However, Fordham’s group which lived in
Hempstead and used Cow Neck for pasturage objected to
his being there. One night they tried to demolish his
home. Cornwell brought them to trial, where they were
fined and his land grant was upheld.
In
1680 was the date chosen for Manhasset’s founding,
based upon the belief that this was the year the Willets
Court area and north Plandome were first settled.
In
1683 the New York State counties were formed. Hempstead
(including North Hempstead) was included in Queens County.
In
1720 the Society of Friends (Quakers) opened the first
school and meeting house in the area, on what is now Northern
Boulevard. It was rebuilt in 1812, after being burned
by the Hessians.
In
1775 North Hempstead (mainly on the Whig or the Patriot
side in the Revolutionary War) seceded from Hempstead
Town (mainly Loyalist or Tory) when the latter passed
a resolution supporting George III. After the war, the
New York state legislature officially recorded the secession
and in 1784 the first North Hempstead town meeting was
held.
In
1801 North Hempstead Turnpike (now Northern Boulevard
and formerly an old Indian trail) was opened as a toll
road. Plandome Road was a country lane. Most of the shops
in Manhasset were clustered in the valley at the head
of the Bay. The main street was called Valley Road.
In
1802 Christ Episcopal Church was founded and rebuilt in
1913 after being struck by lightning. In 1815 the Dutch
Reformed Church was built, and then rebuilt in 1898 after
a fire. St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Church was dedicated
in 1857 on Plandome Road. The present St. Mary’s
on Northern Boulevard was built in 1917.
In
1826 the one-room Manhasset Valley common school was built
and used until 1868.
In
1840 the name “Manhasset” was adopted, although
no one knows for sure why. It may have come from the name
of the “Manhansett” Indians (meaning “island
neighborhood”) who lived in the neighborhood of
Shelter Island. In 1857 the community of Cow Bay also
changed its name to Port Washington.
In
1846 the first local newspaper was published, The North
Hempstead Gazette.
In
1868 the 5-room Plandome Road wooden school was built.
It was later torn down in 1914 and a larger red brick
school was built on the same site in 1915. This was torn
down in 1972 and replaced by the Manhasset Village Green.
In
1898 the Long Island Rail Road reached Manhasset and Port
Washington. The building of the railroad brought a boom
in the growth of Manhasset.
In
1899 Nassau County was created as a separate county out
of Queens.
After
1900 several shops started opening up on Plandome Road,
which would replace Valley Road as the main street.
In
1907 Town Hall opened on Plandome Road and Manhasset became
the permanent seat of North Hempstead Town’s government.
In
1911 Plandome became an incorporated village.
In
1927 the Manhasset Mail was first published.
In
1928 Munsey Park began to be developed by the Metropolitan
Museum of Art; many of its streets were named after American
artists.
In
1929 Plandome Heights became an incorporated village.
During
the 1930s much of Manhasset was built by housing developers:
Munsey Park, North Strathmore, South Strathmore, Shorehaven,
Norgate, Strathmore Vanderbilt, Chester Hill (the Bourndale
area), and some of Flower Hill.
In
1934 the Manhasset Press was first published.
In
1935 Manhasset High School opened, built on the Henry
F. Thompson estate as a Public Works Project during the
Depression.
In
1936 Nassau became the first county in New York State
to adopt a county charter. It went into effect in 1938.
In
1939 Munsey Park Elementary School was built.
In
1941 the development of the “Miracle Mile”
on Northern Boulevard began and was continued after World
War II. During the 1940s Strathmore Village and Manhasset
Cove were built by housing developers.
In
1946 Manhasset’s first public library opened in
a rented storefront on Plandome Road.
In
1952 the present Manhasset Public Library opened on Onderdonk
Avenue. Also in 1946, the Church of Our Savior Lutheran
was built on Northern Boulevard.
In
1949 the Congregational Church was built on Northern Boulevard,
and the present Post Office on Maple Place was built.
In
1951 much of Flower Hill was built.
In
1953 the construction of North Shore Hospital began.
In
1959 Temple Judea was built on Searington Road. In 1968
Shelter Rock Elementary School was built.
In
1979 Plandome Heights celebrated its 50th Anniversary
of incorporation.
In
1980 Manhasset celebrated its 300th birthday. A history
of the Manhasset area, Manhasset—The First 300 Years,
was published to commemorate the event.
In
1984 a 19.7 million dollar bond referendum was passed
to expand and renovate the three public school buildings.
In
1985 hurricane Gloria hit Manhasset. There were widespread
power outages and fallen trees. Plandome Heights residents
of lower Shore Road, The Beachway, and the Tideway were
evacuated because of flooding. Also in 1985, the Town
of North Hempstead had a Bicentennial Celebration featuring
a carnival, a parade, and a fireworks display.
In
1989 a gazebo was built on the site of Manhasset Green
which was subsequently renamed Mary Jane Davies Park in
honor of this long time community activist.
In
1995 the Manhaset Public Library celebrated its 50th Anniversary.
In
1996 a 21.5 million dollar bond referendum was passed
to improve the three public school building systems, to
increase instructional space at the Munsey Park School
and at the Shelter Rock School, to provide technology
for instructional improvement, and to provide the means
for compliance with the Americans with Disabilities Act.
In
1997 Leeds Pond was dredged and cleaned up of accumulated
silt due to rainwater and storm water runoff.
In
1998 the historic 17th Century Nicoll House in Plandome
Manor was demolished.
In
1999 Plandome Heights celebrated its 70th Anniversary
of incorporation.
In
2000 major renovations to the Manhasset Station of the
Long Island Railroad were completed two years after the
100th Anniversary of its first operation to Manhasset.
In
2001 the Plandome Heights Women’s Club celebrated
its 25th Anniversary.
Early
Plandome Heights 1680-1920
The history
of the entire Manhasset area in the 1600s, 1700s, and early
1800s is sketchy. There are few major primary sources available
from the period other than the 8-volume Records of the Towns
of North and South Hempstead. Researching early land ownership
is greatly complicated by the fact that the early land grants
and deeds describe property boundaries by the cow fence, by
some landmark such as a brook, tree, or rock, or by the edge
of another man’s property, and the location of these
markers is not now known. Research into the period is also
greatly confounded by the fact that recent publications on
Manhasset history, few as they are, are full of conflicting
facts and dates.
Nevertheless,
the area we now call Plandome Heights seems to have a rather
surprisingly distinguished, though previously unrecognized,
history and may also have been the site of one of the earliest
homes on Cow Neck.
The Cow
Neck Historical Society’s Sketchbook of Historic Homes
(1963) lists one historic home in Plandome Heights that was
once owned by Mrs. Howard Morse of 69 Shore Road. Unfortunately
the home was burned in a fire in 1965, but the Sketchbook
describes it as being built about 1710 on land granted to
one Nathaniel Pearsall as early as 1686. The earliest known
owner, then, of the land that became Plandome Heights was
Nathaniel Pearsall.
The
Pearsall Family
The Pearsall
family was one of the most prominent early families in the
town. Henry Pearsall, the father of Nathaniel, had come to
Long Island from the colony of Virginia where his father Thomas
Pearsall was a leader of the tobacco traders in the Chesapeake
Bay area. Henry Pearsall became one of the 50 original proprietors
of the Town of Hempstead. He was one of the group mentioned
earlier, headed by Fordham and Carmen, which had bought a
strip of Long Island from the Indians in 1643, had confirmed
it with the Dutch governor Kieft in 1644, had settled in Hempstead,
and used Cow Neck for pasturage. Henry Pearsall himself is
recorded in the town records of 1657 or 1658 as having 12
“gattes” of the cow fence and 12 head of cattle
on Cow Neck. The 3-volume History and Genealogy of the Pearsall
Family in England and America states that Henry Pearsall was
the sixth largest landholder in the town.
If the
Sketchbook is accurate, Nathaniel Pearsall (1649–1703),
the eldest of Henry’s four sons, was granted a piece
of land in present-day Plandome Heights by the town proprietors
in 1686, under the British governor Dongan’s patent.
Nathaniel must have been a capable man because from 1672 (when
only 23 years old) to 1682 he was voted the clerk of the Town
of Hempstead, recording all the town business, and in later
years held other important positions as well, such as town
assessor and town supervisor. For more than 30 years he was
one of Hempstead’s foremost leaders and represented
the town in controversies with the governor and with neighboring
towns.
As the
eldest son, Nathaniel was given the responsibility of dividing
his family’s considerable property among himself and
his brothers Daniel, George, and Thomas. Although it is not
known for certain who the next owner of the Plandome Heights
area was, it seems highly likely that it passed down through
his brother Thomas’s family. In 1692 it is recorded
that as part of the division of the family’s lands,
Nathaniel Pearsall gave to his brother Thomas Pearsall “one
third part of my wright on Cow Neck.”
If Thomas
Pearsall was the next owner of the Plandome Heights land,
it is possible that he was the one who built the farmhouse
on the land around 1710. It must have been a beautiful spot:
a lush green level area right on Manhasset Bay with a bubbling
fresh-water spring nearby, perfect for watering cattle. The
house could be reached either by boat or by horseback. A steep
sandy bluff rose up from the Bay to the east of the house,
making it a sheltered and secluded spot.
The home
had massive open beams that ran the length of the living and
dining rooms and were made of hand-hewn red oak. The oak,
also used on the exterior, came from the sturdy red oaks which
lined Long Island’s harbors. When Howard and Reba Morse
moved into the home in 1923 it still had the original handmade
nails and many of the original panes of hand-blown glass.
We do
not know how much of the Plandome Heights lands the Pearsall
family might have owned. All of the village today only totals
about 220 acres. We do know that farms in the North Hempstead
area generally varied in size from 70 to 300 acres. We also
know that during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries,
farming in the area was of the subsistence type. Settlers
provided practically all of their own needs for food, shelter,
and clothing.
By the
beginning of the nineteenth century, however, farmers began
to produce some cash crops— such as apples, potatoes,
grains, and milk—for consumption by the local markets
and by New York City. From what we know of the Plandome Heights
terrain – that it included level stretches and sloping
areas and had fresh water springs and streams – we can
induce that part of the area may have been more conducive
to farming, part to grazing cattle, and part (the sandy bluff)
to neither use.
Sometime
around 1800 a barn was built on the property and probably
functioned as the barn for the Morse farmhouse. It is now
the oldest surviving structure in Plandome Heights and is
located at 62 Shore Road. More will be said about the history
of this house later.
In reading
through the town records for the early 1800s we learn a few
more facts about the area. In 1819 the Town of North Hempstead
(it had seceded from Hempstead in 1775) laid out nine school
districts. What is now Plandome Heights was included in District
No. 6 which was called the “Head of Cow Neck.”
In 1831, when the town changed its road districts from names
(our area was called the “head of Cow Neck, western
district”) to numbers, what is now Plandome Heights
was included in district No. 7. The only real significance
of this is that in 1843 it is recorded that Charles W. Pearsall
was elected the overseer of highways for district No. 7, which
proves that the Pearsall family still owned land in our area.
This Charles Willets Pearsall (1802-1861), by the way, whose
mother was a Willets, was also the great, great grandson of
the previously mentioned Thomas Pearsall, the brother of Nathaniel.
This
brings us up to the 1850s after which tracing land ownership
is much easier, mainly because of the presence of actual maps.
There are maps of Long Island which show the Plandome Heights
area in 1797 and in 1852, but the first map available which
shows actual land ownership is the Walling map of 1859.
Here we
see that the Willets family owned the farmlands directly to
the north of what is now Plandome Heights in the present vicinity
of Willets Lane. Isaac Sherwood owned the farm directly south,
his drive becoming what is now Colonial Parkway. Colonel Andrew
A. Bremner owned the farm and home directly south, to the
east, mainly in Flower Hill, although his property also included
what is now the Bourndale area.
This leaves
Charles W. Pearsall and William Haviland as the two main property
owners of Plandome Heights in the mid 1800s. It is not known
exactly when Haviland first acquired property in the area.
It is known that he was elected highway overseer for district
No. 7 for the years 1859, 1860, and 1861 and is listed on
the 1859 Walling map, so he obviously owned the property before
1859. He may have inherited it when his father Roe Haviland
died in 1844.
Charles
Willets Pearsall, we know, owned the Plandome Heights lands
until his death on May 18, 1861 at which time the property
passed to his brother Thomas W. Pearsall (1795-1866). Then
it is recorded that a month later on June 26, 1861 Thomas
W. Pearsall and his wife Mary Leggett (they were married at
the Dutch Reformed Church in Manhasset but lived on a farm
in Westchester County) deeded two parcels of land to William
Haviland of Manhasset. One was a 29-acre parcel north of Sherwood’s
property and one was a 15 ½-acre parcel across Plandome
Road where Plandome Court is now. Both parcels were probably
contiguous to the land Haviland already owned in the Plandome
Heights area.
This seems
to mark the end of the Pearsall family’s ownership in
Plandome Heights because a Walling map from 1863 shows only
William Haviland as a landowner. So for the next few decades
the history of Plandome Heights becomes the story of the Haviland
family and its descendant Bloodgood Cutter.
The
Haviland Family
The Haviland
family, like the Pearsall family, was an old landed Long Island
family with many branches. It could trace its American roots
back to 1653. The main branch of the Haviland family in North
Hempstead lived in what is now Little Neck.
William
Haviland inherited a great deal of land in North Hempstead
when his father Roe Haviland died in 1844. He then engaged
in a considerable amount of buying and selling of property.
It could be noted here that most of the early landed families
did. They may have owned certain lands that stayed in their
families over a long period, but other parcels were continuously
being bought and sold, which makes research very difficult.
In any
case, during the 1840s, 1850s, and 1860s William Haviland
and his relatives sold one parcel after another, perhaps because
of declining family fortunes. During the time Haviland owned
the Plandome Heights properties he and his wife Grace may
have lived in the farmhouse on the Bay. As seen in the 1859
and 1863 Walling maps, the approach to the house and barn
was a curving road along the approximate route of the present
Bay Driveway and Shore Road.
While
William Haviland was selling numerous parcels, Bloodgood Haviland
Cutter was buying. However, Haviland also willed some property
to Cutter, including the Plandome Heights lands pictured in
this Beers map of 1873. It is not known exactly how Haviland
was related to Cutter, but they must have had a fairly close
relationship for Haviland to have included Cutter in his will.
In age, if not in fact, Haviland was probably something like
an uncle to Bloodgood.
Bloodgood
Haviland Cutter
The man
with the awesome name of Bloodgood Cutter was certainly one
of the most colorful figures in Plandome Heights’ past.
He was born on August 5, 1817 in Little Neck in his grandfather
Roe Haviland’s house (which later became the “Homestead
Inn” on Northern Boulevard) and lived there until his
marriage. He had only a limited education, mainly from the
Bible, at a small school in Lakeville, for his grandfather
who raised him thought farm work was more important. His parentage
is unclear, for his father is never mentioned; his mother’s
maiden name is given as Mary Bloodgood of Flushing. One source
reports that his parents died when he was young.
However
unclear his roots, he managed to marry well. On November 12,
1840 at the age of 23 he eloped with Miss Emeline Allen, then
16 years old, by putting the proverbial ladder under her window.
Her father was opposed to the match. The Allen family owned
a great deal of property and a mill in Great Neck. Cutter
later acquired the mill, after which Cutter Mill Road is named.
Cutter’s
grandfather Roe Haviland died in 1844, leaving him the Prospect
Hill farm in Great Neck where he and his wife went to live.
During the next few decades Cutter bought much of the Haviland
property at auction and many other parcels besides. He acquired
his birthplace and several Manhasset properties fronting on
Plandome Road. The Plandome Heights properties were willed
to him by William Haviland. Then, fulfilling a longtime desire,
he booked passage on the steamer Quaker City for a trip to
the Holy Land from June to October of 1867.
Bloodgood
by this time was 50 years old and well established as a “character.”
He had an Irish face, it is said, wore old-fashioned clothes,
spoke with a country accent, and was always writing poetry
(“doggerel” they called it)! He wrote Bloodgood
Haviland Cutter poems for every conceivable occasion: for
the Flushing County Fair in 1861, for the laying of the cornerstone
of the Flushing Town Hall, for the Quaker barn dance, for
the burning of his mill, for the death of William Cullen Bryant,
and for many other events.
He wrote
poems to numerous ladies on board the ship (his wife did not
accompany him on the trip) and a long 130-page poem detailing
the entire journey. It so happened that Mark Twain was also
aboard the ship and Bloodgood Cutter, with his eccentric ways,
became the character the “Poet Lariat” in Twain’s
book Innocents Abroad.
This
is how Twain described Cutter in his notes for the book:
He
is 50 years old, and small for his age. He dresses in
homespun, and is a simple-minded, honest, old-fashioned
farmer with a strange proclivity for writing rhymes. He
writes them on all possible subjects and gets them printed
on slips of paper with his portrait at the head. These
he will give to any man that comes along, whether he has
anything against him or not.
And
this is the character, the “Poet Lariat,” that
Mark Twain created, as quoted from his book Innocents
Abroad:
.
. .but we have a poet and a good-natured enterprising
idiot on board and they do distress the company. The one
gives copies of his verses to consuls, commanders, hotel-keepers,
Arabs,
Dutch, — to anybody, in fact, who will submit to
a grievous infliction most kindly meant.
His poetry is all very well on shipboard, notwithstanding
when he wrote an “Ode to the Ocean in a Storm,”
in one-half hour, and an “Apostrophe to the Rooster
in the Waist of the Ship” in the next, the transition
was considered to be rather abrupt; but when he sends
an invoice of rhymes to the Governor of Fayaland another
to the commander-in-chief and other dignitaries in Gibraltar,
with the compliments of the Laureate of the Ship, it is
not popular with the passengers.
Twain’s
evaluation of Cutter seems to have been accurate: that his
poetry was atrocious, but that he was a kindly, well-meaning
soul. In fact, Cutter was well regarded at home, with a reputation
for great honesty and business acumen. Cutter was not at all
insulted by the passage. In fact, he was delighted, and for
the rest of his life loved to be referred to as the “farmer-poet”
and the “Poet Lariat.”
Cutter
was such a colorful character that he frequently found himself
in the news. In 1880 he took a trip to Ireland, Scotland,
England, and France with his wife. On August 9, 1880 on the
New York Times obituary page, no less, a short item appeared
stating: “The report that Bloodgood Cutter, the distinguished
Long Island farmer and ‘Poet Lariat’ in Mark Twain’s
Innocents Abroad, had died in London, is untrue. He is in
Scotland with his wife.”
Unfortunately,
a death was imminent. On March 24, 1881 his wife Emeline had
died. Cutter never remarried. Once in 1893 it was rumored
that he had eloped and remarried, and a reporter from the
Brooklyn Eagle hastened to his home. Cutter squashed the rumor
with the quotable reply that “his only bride was his
muse and that he had no intention of committing bigamy.”
Probably
one of Bloodgood’s proudest moments came in 1886 when
his book, entitled The Long Island Farmer’s Poems was
published by N. Tibbals and Sons of New York “for the
author,” meaning it was a vanity press. The book contains
500 pages of his poetry, including the long poem “The
‘Quaker City’ Excursion” about his trip
to the Holy Land. A small, humorous to the reader, portion
of this poem appears below.
Seven
doctors I found on board,
Very clever, and men of wealth;
They gave us pilgrims good advice,
So that we could preserve our health.
Of
clergymen there were just three;
On board they used to pray and preach;
Of different creeds they all were,
Yet still they did sour’d doctrine teach.
Lawyers
and judges too were there,
Captains, and four colonels too;
Correspondents, writing here and there,
In the saloon our voyage through.
One
droll person there was on board,
The passengers called him “Mark Twain;”
He’d talk and write all sort of stuff,
In his queer way, would it explain.
About
twenty ladies were on board,
Most of them very pleasant too;
And they were all so well informed,
Could converse on subjects old and new.
And
very friendly too they were,
Especially if one was sick;
They would get things for your relief,
Their nursing would restore you quick. . . .
It
made me feel, though, very queer,
To see Long Island disappear;
As we steamed on it seemed quite small,
Before night could not see it at all.
At
two the dinner gong did sound,
In the saloon we gathered round;
The table was pleasing to my view,
With poultry, meats, and puddings too.
The
sea makes keen my appetite,
I eat my food with great delight;
When done I go upon the deck,
To enjoy there the grand prospect.
Some
up and down the deck do walk
Some sit in groups, and then do talk;
Some sit and read, others do sleep,
And some stand gazing on the deep.
At
six o’clock we have our tea,
Then go on deck to view the sea;
At nine o’clock the gong does ring,
To call us then to pray and sing.
Most
of the pilgrims did attend,
Thus pleasantly the evenings spend;
Some did not heed religious ways,
But spent their time in idle plays.
About
ten retire to my berth,
To bid adieu to scenes of earth;
And as the ship does plunge and roll,
It rocks to sleep my weary soul.
Mrs.
Howard Morse of 69 Shore Road remembers . . .
when she was a young girl, she and her mother once visited
Bloodgood Cutter in the farmhouse that her parents would later
buy. She said the home was full of antique English furniture
that Cutter collected. He talked quite a bit about knowing
Mark Twain, she recalled.
Bloodgood
Cutter died peacefully on September 26, 1906 at the age of
89 and was buried at Zion’s Episcopal Church on Northern
Boulevard in Douglaston
in the Haviland family’s plot. Cutter left the estate
of about $500,000, much of which, including the Plandome Heights
lands, he willed to the American Bible Society. A three-day
auction was held to dispose of his large collection of antiques
and books. Ten years later $150,000 in cash and securities
were found in a home safe, along with many unpublished poems.
A newspaper account stated about the latter that “the
executors were not worried about treasure seekers molesting
them.”
The
E. Belcher Hyde’s map shows that what the Plandome Heights
area looked like in 1906 at Cutter’s death. The maps
from 1886 and 1896 show little property change in the immediate
area from the previously shown 1873 map, except that at the
death of Charles H. Smith, a lawyer, the property which he
had bought from Col. Bremner passed to his wife.
This 1906
map is the first map which clearly shows property boundaries
and the locations of buildings. In 1906 the Willets estate
still lay to the north, and the Sherwood property to the south.
Cutter, as you can see, owned all of what would in 1929 become
the Incorporated Village of Plandome Heights. For until December
1904, he even owned what is listed on the map as the Gallagher
property.
When the
Gallagher family bought the land in January of 1905 (another
person owned the property for a month) it was level with Plandome
Road at the top and then dropped into a steep sandy bluff
down to the Bay. For several years the Gallagher Company sand-mined
the area. Small barges on the Bay removed the mined sand,
and as legend goes, carried it to Manhattan to build the sidewalks
of New York.
M.
Douglas Neier of Manhasset remembers. . .
how
the sand mining was done on the Plandome Heights sand bank.
There was a short railroad track at the bottom of the sandy
hill in our village. The mined sand from the hill was loaded
onto sand cars and an engine pulled them onto a trestle located
where The Beachway is now. Then from the trestle, the sand
was poured down chutes into the scows or small flat-bottomed
barges docked there on the Bay.
The company
used Bloodgood Cutter’s farmhouse on the property as
an office. After the sand gave out, (and before Plandome Road
collapsed, which some people had feared) Gallagher sold the
land to the Manhasset Hill Realty Company. It should be added
that most of the Gallagher family’s holdings (there
were at least two generations of Gallagher brothers in the
business) were concentrated in the Port Washington sand pits.
By the 1920s they had formed the Goodwin and Gallagher Sand
& Gravel Company.
The 1906
map also shows that Mrs. Charles H. Smith’s property
had been bought by Alice Grace D’Oench in the early
1900s. She, like Cutter, would figure prominently in Plandome
Heights history, even though the area she owned west of the
railroad tracks would not be annexed to the village until
1949.
Alice
Grade D’Oench
Alice
Grace was the oldest of eleven children born to Lillius and
William Russell Grace. William Grace, born in Ireland, was
the famous international merchant and ship-owner, perhaps
best known for the Grace Lines, who controlled most of the
trade between the United States and South America in the last
quarter of the 19th century. He was also elected the first
Roman Catholic mayor of New York City in 1880, and was reelected
in 1884. In 1897 he and his brother established the Grace
Institute in New York City to educate young women in the domestic
sciences, stenography, and dressmaking. In 1933 William’s
son, Joseph P. Grace, built a branch of this same Grace Institute
on Northern Boulevard a little west of Plandome Road. William
Grace owned a residence in New York City as well as the beautiful
home called “Gracefields,” and property in Great
Neck, much of it concentrated around the present-day Grace
Avenue. He died in 1904, but his company W. R. Grace and Company
has been continued and expanded by his descendants.
Alice
Grace, his daughter, was first married to William E. Holloway,
and on January 10, 1901, to Albert F. D’Oench, an architect.
D’Oench was appointed superintendent of buildings in
Mayor Grace’s second administration but resigned in
1889 to continue his independent practice as an architect.
Alice and Albert D’Oench had one child, Russell Grace
D’Oench. On Flower Hill they built a beautiful English-style
estate which was famous for its 150-year old trees and formal
gardens. Albert D’Oench died in Manhasset on July 20,
1918 but his wife lived until 1932.
The
Long Island Railroad Reaches Manhasset - 1898
At this
point, the importance of the Long Island Railroad in Plandome
Heights’ developments should be emphasized. The Manhasset
area was definitely rural in the 19th century. Then the railroad
was extended to Manhasset and Port Washington in 1898. Suddenly,
wealthy people such as the Paysons, Whitneys, Munsons, and
Masons from New York City had easy access to the beauty of
the North Shore, purchased the farmlands, and built magnificent
estates. During the first quarter of the 20th century, parts
of Manhasset and Plandome Heights, too, became exclusive areas.
In the
Plandome Heights locale, the D’Oench estate lay to the
east. Plandome, which was incorporated in 1911 to preserve
its home rule, lay to the north. In 1909 Benjamin N. Duke
of the Duke tobacco family purchased Cutter’s property
from the American Bible Society to whom Cutter had willed
it. Duke bought the heights – the high level lands to
the east and west of Plandome Road – in the name of
the “Plandome Heights” Company, and Plandome Heights
as a distinct area was born.
Benjamin
N. Duke
Benjamin
Newton Duke (1855-1929) and his younger brother James Buchanan
Duke (1856-1925) were born on a tobacco farm near Durham,
North Carolina, to Washington and Artelia Duke. Their father
built a factory in Durham in 1874, which became the basis
of the family fortune. James later started the manufacturing
of cigarettes by machine, which developed the Duke fortunes
into one of the largest in the country. By 1890 the Duke brothers
had formed the giant American Tobacco Company with James as
president and Benjamin as one of the directors. James Duke’s
strength was in business organization, while Benjamin Duke
was more interested in education and philanthropy. Due to
Benjamin’s influence, the Duke family was estimated
to have eventually contributed from $90 –$100 million
to hundreds of institutions including colleges, hospitals,
orphanages, churches, and various charities. Benjamin N. Duke
In 1911,
after five years of litigation, the Supreme Court ruled that
the American Tobacco Company should be dissolved as a combination
in restraint of trade. Benjamin Duke had already begun to
divert his capital to other enterprises such as cotton mills,
banks, railroads, and hydroelectric power plants in the South,
and to real estate in New York and New Jersey. After 1911
he devoted himself exclusively to these enterprises and to
his many philanthropic endeavors.
The Plandome
Heights Company was one of Benjamin Duke’s real estate
ventures. It was rumored within the village that Duke became
disenchanted with the community at Tuxedo Park, New York,
so he decided to create his own social environment in Plandome
Heights.
1910
the Great Neck civil engineering firm of J. W. Jacobus surveyed
and plotted the area. Plandome Court was laid out and called
the first section of Plandome Heights. Summit Driveway, Summit
Place, Grandview Circle, Bay Driveway, and Bayview Circle
were laid out and called the second section of Plandome Heights.
The names of these streets, one can reasonably surmise, came
from their location. Summit Place and Driveway were on the
summit of the hill; Grandview Circle was a circular drive
with a “grand view” of the Bay; Bay Driveway was
the drive running down to the Bay; and Bayview Circle was
a circular road giving a close view of the Bay.
Over
the next few years several Spanish-style homes, which was
a popular style in the early 1900s, were built with white
stucco exteriors and red-tiled roofs. A walk through Plandome
Heights reveals which of the homes, which villagers now call
the “tobacco houses,” must have been part of the
originally planned Duke community. On the east side of Plandome
Road there are four such homes: one supposedly set aside for
the Dukes at 64 Plandome Court; one at 164 Plandome Court;
and two side-by-side at 808 and 832 Plandome Road. On the
west side of Plandome Road these Spanish-style homes are located
at 665 Plandome Road, at 66 and 90 Summit Drive, and at 5,
20 and 33 Grandview Circle. One Duke home, at the entrance
to Summit Drive, has since been torn down.
Benjamin
Duke never actually lived in Plandome Heights. His home for
a few decades, until his death, was at East 89th Street and
Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. Perhaps he had developed the community
purely as a real estate investment. Or perhaps he had originally
planned to summer here with his friends and then changed his
mind. In any case, the Plandome Heights Company retained its
investment in the area through 1920, although Duke did not
remain its president during that entire period.
Benjamin
Duke died in January of 1929, the year that the community
he planned became an incorporated village. He was survived
by his wife, the former Sarah Pearson Angier of Durham, North
Carolina; his daughter Mary Duke Biddle; and four grandchildren.
One of his two sons died in childhood; the other, Angier B.
Duke, died in 1923. Doris Duke, the well-known tobacco heiress,
was his niece, being the only child of his brother James B.
Duke.
The
Belcher-Hyde map below shows what the Plandome Heights community
looked like in 1914. You will notice, however, that the scale
is inaccurate: the Plandome Court area is too large, and the
undeveloped section is too small.
The Spanish-style
home at 64 Plandome Court was owned by George Klackner. The
other “tobacco houses” are shown to be owned by
Clifford Barber, John J. Hoff, Mrs. Nugent, Helen Weinberg,
A.C. Gwymere, F.C. Gilsey, and the Navahoe Realty Company.
You will
also notice that there are two connecting lanes on the map
between Summit Driveway and Bay Driveway. These may have originally
been planned as beach easements so summer residents could
reach the popular beach at the foot of Bay Driveway. Even
though these streets were never built, they still appear on
Nassau County maps today.
Another
Belcher-Hyde map from 1914 shows the entire Manhasset area.
The scale of Plandome Court in relation to the undeveloped
area is still inaccurate.
Here it
can be seen that part of Cutter’s former holdings were
still listed in his name and part of his former property was
owned by Manhasset Hill Realty Company, which had bought it
from the Gallaghers.
The Manhasset
Hill Realty Company was owned by Henry F. Thompson who acquired
a considerable amount of property in Manhasset. Eventually
his estate included the large parcel south of the railroad,
where Manhasset High School was built; large parcels just
north of the railroad by Thompson Shore Road (named after
him) and running to the Bay; as well as the entire Manhasset
Cove area in Plandome Heights. This latter section included
all the land that would later become the Cove-Waterway-Neck-Shore
Road area. That story doesn’t start until the 1930s.
In summary,
Plandome Heights in the 1920s was a small, exclusive community
with probably less than 20 homes, all with spacious interiors
and gardens.
In the
1920s this exclusive aim was modified when a limited number
of building lots became available. According to Gottfried
and Agnes Steigmann who built their home at 115 Plandome Court
in 1925, Plandome Heights then had only about 40 homes, but
by 1929 the number of homes had approximately doubled. All
of this building activity occurred, of course, in the Plandome
Court-Plandome Road-Bay Driveway- Summit-Grandview Circle
area. Mrs. Steigmann recalls how her children would walk to
the Plandome Village Hall school for the early elementary
grades, and how much they enjoyed walking down to the Bay
in the summertime to go swimming. The Plandome Court roadway
was in such bad shape that it became a virtual pond in rainy
weather. Seagulls would come in for landings and children
sailed their toy boats.
Life in
early Plandome Heights sounds idyllic, but in 1929, of course,
there were forces on the local scene which caused the peaceful
community of Plandome Heights to incorporate in June, and
forces on the national scene which brought the Great Crash
in October
Plandome
Heights Becomes an Incorporated Village – June 11, 1929
The main
impetus for the incorporation of most areas has been the desire
for home rule, and especially for the power to set local zoning
laws. In 1929 when Plandome Heights incorporated, villages
still had zoning powers. But the 1938 Nassau County Charter
changed this. It stipulated that all existing villages could
retain zoning powers but denied the rights to any area that
might incorporate in the future. It is significant that since
1938 there has been only one new village in Nassau County.
The general
reason Plandome Heights drew up incorporation papers in June
1929 can also be said to be the desire for home rule and the
desire to keep taxes low. But specifically there seem to be
two main issues which instigated the incorporation.
The first
issue involved the zoning of a piece of land just north of
Colonial Parkway and Webster Avenue. In the September 27,
1928 issue of Manhasset Mail it was reported that the owners
of that property protested the Town Planning Board and Zoning
Commission’s suggestion to change it to Class A residential
for single family homes. They wanted to build garden apartments
on their property instead.
Some Plandome
Heights residents organized to protest. The first Plandome
Heights Association was formed, with John S. Olney, who lived
on Plandome Road, as president and John M. Isaacs of 95 Bay
Driveway as secretary. The Association was effective. The
Town Board held its final hearing on the matter on February
27, 1929 and ruled that the piece of land in question would
be zoned Class A residential. The issue caused some controversy
in Plandome Heights, however. Two residents who lived on Plandome
Road testified for the apartment houses and were “vigorously
opposed” by the Association at the hearing.
The Plandome
Heights Association was already geared for action when a second
controversial issue appeared: the ever-popular issue of sewers.
The Town Board, with the Manhasset Civic Association’s
approval, was proceeding early in 1929 to form a sewer district
in Manhasset. The only area which protested was Plandome Heights.
The Plandome Heights Association circulated a petition against
the proposed sewers and this was submitted to the Town Board
in March by John Isaacs. “We have no objections to a
sewer for Manhasset proper,” said Mr. Isaacs, “so
long as it does not include the property of the signers of
the Plandome Heights Association petition against it.”
Mr. Isaacs also said that if the Town Board agreed to the
proposed sewer district, the Plandome Heights Association
would move for annexation to the Village of Plandome.
The March
28, 1929 issue of the Manhasset Mail included a letter from
Summit Drive resident George Oestreich explaining Plandome
Heights’ position:
Plandome
Heights is restricted to one-family dwellings and it is
our good fortune that our terrain is especially well adapted
to the proper functioning of cesspools and septic tanks,
due to the subsoil of sand which extends to a depth of 14
ft. and beyond this coarse gravel exists, with the result
that we experience no trouble whatever with our present
system of disposal. In view of these conditions, surely
it would be violating the simplest laws of economy were
we to invite additional unnecessary taxation which a sewage
system would obviously bring about. On the other hand, should
the business section of Manhasset, which has shown such
a remarkable development in recent years, require and desire
a comprehensive sewer system, we wish them good luck in
their undertaking, as most certainly such a decision must
be reached before long.
The Manhasset
Civic Association met on the evening of April 1. John Isaacs
said again that if Plandome Heights was included in the sewer
district, it was going to incorporate at once.
On April
8 the Town Board met and voted to form Manhasset’s million
dollar sewer district over a minority protest from the Plandome
Heights Association. John Isaacs and Plandome Court resident
George F. Weimann voiced the Association’s feelings.
Weimann said, “Sewers would throw the community wide
open for apartment houses,” and “We should put
the sewer money into a hospital for this locality.”
After
the Town Board’s action, Plandome Heights proceeded
with its plans to incorporate. It was discovered that Plandome
Heights could not annex itself to the Incorporated Village
of Plandome, because the consent of both Plandome and the
Town Board were necessary. It seemed unlikely that the Town
Board would consent, regardless of how Plandome felt. So Plandome
Heights decided to incorporate by itself. Ernest Strong, counsel
for Plandome and Plandome Heights, detailed the procedure:
- Peights
Association submits to the Town Supervisor a proposition
signed by 25 adult freeholders in the village, describing
the territory to be incorporated, and enumerating the population.
(To incorporate, a village must have 250 people residing
within a 3-mile radius.)
- The
Association submits to the Town Supervisor a consent form
signed by property owners constituting at least one-third
of the value of real property in the village, as assessed
at the last town assessment.
- The
Supervisor holds a hearing on the subject of whether or
not the above-filed papers comply with the law.
- The
village holds an election on the question of incorporating.
Voters must have owned property in the village for at least
60 days before the election.
- The
village then is incorporated when the election certificate
is signed by the election inspectors and delivered to the
Secretary of State, the Tax Commissioner, the County Clerk,
and County Treasurer; and when the village map is certified
as correct by the Town Supervisor and filed with the Secretary
of State.
- Then
the Town Clerk appoints a temporary Village Clerk and 3
electors to serve as inspectors. The Village Clerk within
5 days gives notice of an election of officers. An election
is held to choose a Mayor and four trustees. Within five
dlandome Hays after the election, the Mayor and trustees
meet, and appoint a clerk and treasurer.
It was
quite an involved procedure. Someone, perhaps the Town, circulated
a sheet addressed to “Mr. Taxpayer of Plandome Heights”
asking “Have you carefully and seriously studied the
question of incorporation upon which you are to vote on Tuesday,
the 11th. Do you not know that this is a matter of such grave
importance that it should not be acted upon hastily or without
thorough knowledge of the responsibilities?” Then it
discussed three main issues: 1. Taxation and home rule: “Are
you ready to pay increased taxes without increased benefits?”
2. Sewers: “Sewers are bound to come. Do you prefer
to have them installed by a local commission . . . or . .
. by a general commission, over which you will have no control?”
3. Zoning: Do you not know that if you form a village and
propose to adopt zoning ordinances, that you must provide
a business district in the most reasonable and logical place?”
The broadside ended by exhorting the villagers to “VOTE
‘NO’ upon the proposition to incorporate your
territory into a village.”
On June
11, 1929 the election on the question of incorporation was
held at the residence of John Isaacs, 95 Bay Driveway. The
outcome was 35 ballots for incorporation and 17 against. Plandome
Heights was now an incorporated village.
The next
month on July 17, Plandome Heights villagers held an election
to choose their first Mayor and Board of Trustees. Those elected
were: Mayor, John Olney; and Trustees, John Isaacs, Frank
Haley, W. W. Lancaster, and Gottfried Steigmann.
In concluding
the story of how Plandome Heights became incorporated, it
must be said that Plandome Heights can take some of the responsibility
(either praise or blame, depending on how you look at it)
for the fact that Manhasset was never sewered. It was the
first area which voiced strong opposition and “seceded”
from the Town to escape inclusion in the sewer district.
In October
of 1929, however, the Manhasset Board of Sewer Commissioners
issued a report showing that the sewer system would cost considerably
more than $1 million or $.50 a front foot per year. A month
later Munsey Park also decided to incorporate, to avoid higher
taxes with the coming of the sewers.
With the
loss of both Plandome Heights and Munsey Park which together
totaled over one-fourth of the district’s assessed property
valuation, the Town Board recommended in January of 1930 that
the Manhasset Sewer District be dissolved.
Besides,
the Depression had also come.
Plandome
Heights Develops – 1930-2001
During
the 1930s there was little growth or construction in Plandome
Heights because of the Depression. Oddly enough, this is when
many of the other residential areas in Manhasset were being
developed. The 1930 census listed the village population as
265; by 1940 it had only risen to 317. One of the first acts
of the village leaders was to pass a new building restriction
ordinance since the old one was due to expire on January 1,
1930. So the village trustees held hearings and adopted a
Village Building Zone Restriction Ordinance on November 19,
1929. Some of the basic provisions were: a minimum lot area
of 9000 square feet, a minimum frontage of 60 feet, a building
area not to exceed ¼ of the lot area, and total side
yards not less than 30 feet. Only single family detached dwellings
would be permitted. These restrictions meant, of course, that
apartments could not be built in Plandome Heights, the fear
of which had been one of the reasons for incorporation.
A second
major task the village leaders tackled was to resurface the
roads, which were said to be “in deplorable condition.”
Bay Driveway had been paved by the Town early in 1928 and
sidewalks had been added later that year. But the other streets
needed paving. So a $30,000 bond issue was voted for the work,
and during the summer of 1930 Plandome Court, Summit Driveway,
Summit Place, and Grandview Circle were paved with concrete
and given concrete curbs.
In 1931
the village held an election and John ( Jack) Isaacs became
Mayor, a position he ably held until 1945. His wife Edith
Wiles Isaacs became Village Clerk. Both were dedicated and
active members of the Manhasset and Plandome Heights communities
and offered their home at 95 Bay Driveway for village elections
and meetings.
During
the years of the Isaacs’ term of office most of the
village business, as we shall see, concerned the residential
planning and development of the area. But there were a few
other issues that did surface.
In the
fall of 1939 a rat problem was noticed. Mrs. Isaacs sent a
postal card to all residents asking them to report the incidence
of any rats. A number of residents sent back affirmative replies.
Some acknowledged the presence of rats in their own cellars
or greenhouses. Some reported the presence of rats in their
neighbors’ yards. One resident, a rather humorous member
of the New York Stock Exchange, reported that “ I have
seen several of the human species from time to time on my
property but no low animal life.” The most clever response
was from a lawyer on Bay Driveway who wrote a one-page play
in the form of a “deposition.” Under strict questioning
the “examiner” was able to learn that the “deponent”
had seen not millions of rats, or even thousands of rats,
but only two rats, or possibly even the same rat twice. The
deponent stated his excitement that there would be a “a
war against rats in Plandome Heights, just like the war against
the Rat over in Europe.” The “rat war” seems
like a humorous issue today, but it was handled seriously
by the village and “won.”
In July
of 1941 the Village Board of Trustees passed a resolution
opposing the building of a huge two million gallon oil storage
tank in Great Neck on the Bay. The Board’s reasoning
was that it would have a deteriorating effect on property
values in the village and would be a serious fire hazard to
the community. The storage tank, however, was built.
Bernie
Gutman of 15 Bay Driveway remembers. . .
during
world War II when gas was rationed and people couldn’t
go out driving on the weekends, the village organized cookouts
at the end of Bay Driveway.
These
were some of the local issues that the village leaders had
to contend with during the 1930s and early 1940s. But probably
the biggest responsibility was in guiding the development
of the undeveloped acres in the village north of the Bay Driveway
homes.
The
Development of Manhasset Cove
As was
mentioned earlier, the undeveloped section north of Bay Driveway
between Plandome Road and the Bay was owned by the Manhasset
Hill Realty Company, and was part of the estate of Henry F.
Thompson (hence the reason for the property often being called
the “Thompson property”).
During
the 1920s the Manhasset Hill Realty Company sold several parcels
along Shore Road to Alice Hemphill, Howard M. Morse, Lewis
Howland Brown, and Richard Snowden Andrews. The approximate
location of their properties was as follows:

Alice
Hemphill was the first to own land in this location. In February
1922 her father, Charles Dayton Silleck, bought her the large
parcel extending east from the Bay, and in 1934 purchased
another contiguous parcel. The Hemphills built a summerhouse
on the property at the point where Shore Road then ended.
Two brick gateposts stood at the entrance of the circular
drive in front of their home. The Hemphills owned this parcel
until 1968–69 when they sold most of their land to a
developer who tore down the house. On the plot they retained
overlooking the Bay, they built a lovely home at 89 Shore
Road.
Howard
M. Morse, a patent attorney in New York City, and his wife
Reba purchased two waterfront parcels in November 1922. Their
land included the historic Plandome Heights home discussed
earlier which was built on the Pearsall property about 1710.
To recapitulate, the home was later owned by Bloodgood Cutter,
became an office for the Gallagher sand company, and then
was sold to Henry F. Thompson. Thompson partially rebuilt
the house but never lived there. The Morses modernized the
house by adding electricity, plumbing, and other conveniences.
The exterior was painted white with butter yellow shutters.
Photographs of the home reveal the lovely setting in a lush
green open spot on the Bay with natural springs of pure water
nearby. Unfortunately the home burned in a fire in 1965 and
another home was built in its place at 69 Shore Road.
Howland
Brown, a member of the New York Stock Exchange, purchased
both waterfront and upland parcels in 1924 and 1929. On the
waterfront parcel he built a dock for his large yacht. Manhasset
Bay was deeper and wider then. His upland property included
a gardener’s cottage (where during the 1920s a man by
the name of John Dietz made his living by hiring out horses)
and a large barn which dated from about 1800. The barn and
the Morse farmhouse were probably all part of the farm owned
in the 1800s by the Pearsalls and then by William Haviland
and by Bloodgood Cutter. This structure is now the oldest
surviving building in Plandome Heights. A spicy bit of news
is that during the Prohibition era in the 1920s and early
1930s the barn was used to store liquor that was smuggled
in from the Bay. The “speakeasy,” which still
exists, even had two slot machines. Entrance to the underground
room, which may have originally been a root cellar, was probably
gained through a trap door.
Mr.
Brown eventually converted the barn into a large white-pillared
home and also expanded the cottage. Both still have a commanding
view of the Bay tucked in behind new homes at 62 and 66 Shore
Road.
Snowden
Andrews bought his parcel in December of 1928 from the Manhasset
Hill Realty Company. He built a home in the southern colonial
style with tall white pillars similar to Brown’s, on
the hill where Willow Court is now. The developers who bought
his land in 1966 razed it when they built the Willow Court
homes.
By 1931
the executors of the Thompson estate who controlled the Manhasset
Hill Realty Company were planning to dispose of their remaining
property in Plandome Heights. They printed a folder, improved
the rather steep bluff east of Shore Road by grading, and
set the price from the remaining 20 acres of waterfront and
upland property at $350,000, plus $25,000 for Thompson’s
son’s home on the corner of Bay Driveway and Shore Road.
It seems that the property was not sold because it remained
in the hands of the Manhasset Hill Realty Company during the
1930s and eventually was partially developed by them.
As early
as 1931, however, when the Village Planning Board heard that
the property was on the market, it was poised for its coming
responsibility. In 1937 the Manhasset Hill Realty Company
submitted a proposed subdivision map of the area to the Planning
Board. The plot plan showed a rather congested number of homes
on three streets: Wayside Run, Littleworthe Lane and Dedham
Byway. The plan was not approved.
By 1939
the Planning Board was chaired by Walter Burr and included
Ada Carleton, R. Snowden Andrews, Leonard Wickenden, and Edward
Breen. They began to meet almost weekly. They faced an awesome
responsibility in guiding the village’s development
and their story is recounted below.
On January
12, 1939 the Board rejected another proposed development submitted
by the Manhasset Hill Realty Company. This plan included over
92 plots and did not comply with the Village Zoning Ordinance
requiring a minimum plot size of 9000 square feet, and concrete
roads and sidewalks. On January 18 Mr. N. Boyce Jenkins of
Sands Point, the builder, submitted another plot plan, which
was also rejected because it didn’t even present a true
outline of the property.
Then John
Isaacs, the mayor, had a plot plan prepared by the Manhasset
Civil Engineers and submitted it to the Planning Board on
January 24. This plan called for two parallel curved streets
leading down to Shore Road, with concrete pavements, curbs,
and sidewalks. It was approved.
However,
not for long. On February 11, the Village Planning Board denied
building permits to the Manhasset Hill Realty Company for
the first 13 lots. On February 14 some board members resigned,
and John Isaacs and W. Arthur Lee were appointed in their
place. A resolution was passed not to file the January 24
plan. Another resolution was passed, strictly enumerating
village building requirements for streets, curbs, sidewalks,
and storm basins.
On February
28 Mr. Jenkins submitted a tentative plot plan, just for the
Cove Drive area, and agreed to conform with village requirements
for streets, lights, and drainage. On March 16, he returned
with the final map entitled Manhasset Cove. The Planning Board
passed a resolution that since the plan generally met the
Board’s requirements, a public hearing would be held
on March 27.
At the
hearing the information was released that the property would
be developed by the Jan Rock Corporation, whose main incorporators
were Harold E. Rounds of Kings Point and N. Boyce Jenkins
of Sands Point. The development would be called Manhasset
Cove; colonial homes would be built on lots of at least 9000
square feet in four sections. Immediately after the hearing
the Planning Board met and approved the plan. The next month
in April 1939, the Jan Rock Corporation was changed to the
Manhasset Cove Corporation, and the building of the first
eleven homes on Cove Drive began. The article below, detailing
the development, appeared in a New York newspaper.
As
it turned out, the Manhasset Cove Corporation never realized
its rather grandiose plans. Either because of financial conditions
or because of World War II, it was able to build only the
first eleven homes on Cove Drive. During the years 1940–43,
the Manufacturers Trust Company held a lien on the Corporation’s
property, and the village taxes were unpaid.
As a result,
in March of 1944 a land auction was held at Mayor Isaacs’
home. Patrick and Cecilia Callan succeeded in buying all of
the undeveloped portion of Manhasset Cove. However, the layout
of the area had to be replanned since in February 1940, R.
Snowden Andrews had bought two strips of land abutting his
property, which cut into a proposed street on the 1939 plot
plan. So during 1944, 1945, and 1946 the area was surveyed
again and replanned. Instead of two parallel streets running
down to Shore Road, the present street layout was designed,
with The Neck and The Waterway joining Cove Drive.
After
World War II, when building materials were plentiful again,
Callan Builders Inc. built the brick homes on The Waterway,
The Neck, and lower Cove Drive. Some of the interior designs
were similar to the original Manhasset Cove homes on upper
Cove Drive.
Then in
1948 the Planning Board approved the layout of another pocket
of homes near Shore Road. The street was at first called Andrews
Place in honor of R. Snowden Andrews but then, in keeping
with the unofficial village policy of naming a street after
its geographical area, was named The Beachway. A narrow strip
of land at the end of the Beachway was set aside to provide
public access to the beach. Callan Builders built these 10
homes on The Beachway and Shore Road during 1948.
Edna
Cooper of 2 The Beachway remembers. . .
the
wonderful Fourth of July celebrations the Beachway residents
used to enjoy. They closed off the top of the street with
sawhorses and had a block party on the circle. Bridge tables
were set up, everyone brought food, and there was music, singing
and fireworks for the children.
The Beachway
residents were a cohesive group. They even formed their own
organization called “The Beachway Folk” and had
a letterhead printed. John Mezey of 15 The Beachway was President;
“Hap” Lyons of 9 The Beachway was Vice-President;
and Mr. and Mrs. Frank Pickles were Treasurer and Secretary,
respectively. Another resident was Cecilia Callan who moved
to 23 The Beachway from Munsey Park after her husband, the
builder of Manhasset Cove, died in 1949. In 1953 when the
roadwork and drainage work on the street was completed, the
Beachway residents petitioned the Planning Board to be recognized
as part of the Incorporated Village of Plandome Heights. They
joined the village that year.
The
Development and Annexation of Chester Hill
In
1949, the year of the 20th Anniversary of the incorporation
of the village of Plandome Heights, the village was greatly
enlarged by the annexation of an area called Chester Hill.
No one
seems to know for sure why this area, leading up to Flower
Hill, was called Chester Hill. It may have been named after
a Manhasset landowner named John Chester. Since the early
1900s the land had been part of the Alice Grace D’Oench
estate. It was a lovely grassy plain with a brook and pond
on the eastern end. In March of 1932, when Mrs. D’Oench
died, the property went in trust to Joseph T. Grace, William
R. Grace, and Adolf Garni. Then in 1937 these trustees sold
the land to a development company called Chester Hill Manhasset
Inc. The area, almost 32 acres, was surveyed, and the plot
plans were approved by the Town of North Hempstead’s
Planning Board.
It was
divided into three vertical sections. Sections A and B were
developed in 1938-40; as it turned out Section C was not developed
until the 1950s. The meandering brook at the eastern end of
the property was relocated within a 12-foot reserved strip.
Another strip of land, here labeled the D’Oench Estate
Chester
Hill Development Plan
Right
of Way, was reserved for a road going over the railroad tracks
to Flower Hill. Originally a road called Lake Side Drive was
planned around the lake, but this never materialized. The
new streets were called Bourndale Road North, Bourndale Road
South, Chester Drive, Winthrope Road, and Brookwold Drive.
Chester Drive undoubtedly was named after Chester Hill. The
Bourndales were probably named after the beautiful words “bourn(e)”
and “dale” meaning “a stream” in “a
vale.” Likewise, Brookwold Drive seems to have been
named after its geographic area: “brookwold” means
“a brook” on “an unwooded plain.”
Webster Drive had already been built in the late 1920s as
part of a section called Manhasset Gardens, which comprised
the streets of Lindbergh, Gaynor, Vanderbilt, and Webster.
These streets were named after famous people who either visited
or had relatives living here, Webster being named after Daniel
Webster.
Oleg
Gaydebouroff of 164 Plandome Court remembers. . .
that
growing up in Plandome Heights in the 1930s was something
special. He used to play Indian by making bows and arrows
with real arrowheads that he found on the area that became
Cove Drive. He found horseshoes buried on his own property.
He and his friends would also play on D’Oench’s
farm, teasing the bulls and cows, catching sunfish and pollywogs
in the pond, and playing “donkey baseball” on
the field by the railroad track. This game consisted of hitting
the ball, then jumping on a donkey and trying to get it to
run the bases before being tagged out!
In 1949
most of Chester Hill, except for Section C, had been developed.
In that year as a result of a Manhasset Civic Liaison Committee’s
report, all of the unincorporated areas adjoining the Plandome
Road business district began to discuss incorporation. This
included Norgate, Shorehaven, and Chester Hill. At first they
discussed incorporating as separate villages. On May 10, 1949,
at a meeting held at Manhasset High School, they discussed
incorporating as one village. After the meeting Plandome Heights
Mayor W. Arthur Lee discussed annexing Chester Hill to Plandome
Heights.
On May
17 nearly 150 people attended a mass meeting of Chester Hill
residents to discuss the proposed annexation. At the meeting’s
end they unanimously approved a resolution to petition the
Town Board to join Plandome Heights. At a meeting the same
night Shorehaven residents also voted unanimously to petition
to join Plandome Heights. However, the latter annexation movement
did not proceed because the village law was interpreted to
exclude the annexation of another unincorporated area which
was not contiguous to the village.
Over 90%
of the eligible voters of Chester Hill who represented over
90% of the assessed property signed the petition for annexation.
On July 26 a majority of the Town Board consented to the annexation.
Now it was up to the residents of Plandome Heights.
The Plandome
Heights Civic Association, whose president was W.E. Himsworth,
issued a 2-page letter on the question. Reasons given in support
of annexation were:
- It
would improve our chances of zoning control on the vacant
property on the east side of Plandome Road just north of
Webster Avenue.
- We
would be able to control parking on Plandome Road at this
point.
- It
would strengthen our position as a village by increasing
its size and spreading our community of interest.
In fact,
it was pointed out, the annexation of Chester Hill would increase
both the population and the assessed value of the village
by almost exactly 50%. Chester Hill had a population of 311;
Plandome Heights had 628. Chester Hill had 92 homes with a
total property assessment of $902,000; Plandome Heights had
157 homes with $1,804,000 worth of property.
The Plandome
Heights permissive referendum to annex Chester Hill was held
on September 7, 1949 at Mayor Lee’s house at 101 Summit
Drive. It passed and by September 14, when all the necessary
papers had been filed, Chester Hill officially became part
of the Incorporated Village of Plandome Heights.
During
the 1950s the rest of Chester Hill was developed. The western
end, Section C on the plot plan, was an empty lot fronting
on Plandome Road and for many years had been a source of irritation
to neighbors because some people used it for parking or for
dumping rubbish and grass cuttings. So in 1952 plans were
drawn and approved for a subdivision of 10 homes called Manhasset
Grove, which would be built by the P.C.R. Development Corporation.
Also that year, Reverend Donald Weymouth, pastor of the Manhasset
Baptist Church, made plans to purchase the southern part of
the lot. His church had formerly held services at the Onderdonk
House in Manhasset but now needed a larger building. Rev.
Weymouth felt that his church would also provide a good buffer
between the Plandome Road stores and the residential village
of Plandome Heights. In 1953–54 the church launched
a building fund campaign, and soon after the new church was
built.
The last
remaining section of Chester Hill to be developed was the
extreme eastern end. Lake Side Drive and the homes around
it were not built as originally planned. Instead, in the late
1950s Nassau County acquired the property for a water recharge
basin and then, after protestations by Chester Hill residents,
built a lovely park around the pond to cover up the necessary
pipes.
Land
Development 1950-2001
In 1954
Homestead Properties purchased the Bayview Circle area and
proceeded to build and sell homes there in 1955–56.
In April of 1956 the company sold the remaining land to Otruba
Homes, Inc.
In the
1960s the large parcels fronting on Shore Road were developed
in two sections. First Snowden Andrews sold his 2-acre plot
in 1966 to the Lyneti Construction Company of Albertson. His
lovely white-pillared home on the hill was razed and the Tivel
Construction Corporation built the large Willow Court homes.
The name of this development was Heritage at Plandome Heights.
Then in
1968 the Paddons and Hemphills sold their plots, which totaled
5 acres, to another developer who sold the land to the Plandome
Heights Development Corporation, which built the large Country
Estates homes on upper Shore Road. In the process the Hemphill’s
summer home was razed, and a new one was built overlooking
the Bay at 89 Shore Road. The Paddon’s home at 62 Shore
Road, formerly owned by Howland Brown, was preserved, as was
the home next to it at 66 Shore Road.
It could
be added that in 1969 the tiny triangle of land on Plan |